Exotic Driving Experience
May 23

10 Tips for Engine Survival

10 Tips for Engine Survival
by Don Terrill – RacingSecrets.com ©2003

1.) Less RPM – This is the number one killer of an engine. If you can make enough power at a lower RPM you should do it. Don’t forget missed shifts, now that’s a real killer.

2.) Optimal Coolant Temp – Both running an engine under power with too much water temp and too little temp can be harmful. High temps are the worst, with blown head gaskets one of the first signs of trouble. I’d say between 160′ and 210′ is best, never over 240′.

3.) Optimal Oil Temp – Low oil temp lowers oil flow. Higher oil temp breaks down the oil and gives way to the chance of metal parts coming into contact. Drag Racers usually race with the oil temp too low and stock car racers too high. Try to get near 200′.

4.) Less Compression – I’m a real fan of less compression. If you don’t need the extra power then there’s no need having the engine on melt down. If you’re in a competitive class then you have no choice. I’d keep it under 12 if you don’t need the power.

5.) Proper Ignition Timing – Too much timing leads to pre-ignition, which is like hitting the piston with a sledge hammer. Too little timing can lead to extremely hot exhaust valves. What happens if an exhaust gets too hot? The head eventually falls off. The only way to know the right timing is by dyno testing, track testing or reading the spark plugs.

6.) Tighter Lash – The weakest link in most engines today is the valvetrain and nothing kills it faster than too much lash. Just adding .010″ of lash can double the force on the valves. The only negatives to tight lash is usually less torque and the chance of holding the valve open if you go too far. Consult your cam maker for a usable range.

7.) Optimal Oil Level – You probably think I’m going to say too low is the problem, well if someone is going to make a mistake on oil level, 90% of the time it’s going to be too high. Too much oil can lead to the crank and rods whipping it up and adding air — not good. Most applications are very safe at 6qts.

8.) Proper A/F Ratio – Too rich a mixture can cause problems, for example carbon build up and washing the cylinders down. The real risk is from too lean a mixture. Just like ignition timing the only way to know the right mixture is by dyno testing, track testing or reading the spark plugs.

9.) Proper Clearances – Rod bearing clearance, main bearing clearance, piston to wall clearance, lash, etc., all are extremely important. You’d be shocked to know how few engine builders know exactly what these specs are. My advice, buy the tools and learn how to assemble your own engine.

10.) Proper Startup – I can’t tell you how many times I’ve seen this, someone starts their racecar completely cold and proceeds to rev the engine between idle and 7000 RPM. All engines need time to warm up. Better yet, how about oil and coolant heaters?

www.racingsecrets.com

Feb 5

460 Ford Powered 1978 Ford Fairmont Futura

Posted in fun stuff

A 1975 Lincoln Towncar gave it’s life (460 & C6 Trans) so that this car could live. I put this combination together after the factory-installed 200 straight six seized up on me. The body & paint went kinda haywire, it originally had a vinyl top. I removed that when the thing started rusting through from the inside.

The car was put together in 1981 when I was only 21 years old, so speed was (and still is) more important to me than fancy paintjobs or chrome parts. Besides imagine the look on the other guys face when you blow right past his car in this one! Thankfully my income has been increased since then, so subsequent racecars have looked better than the old 460 Ford powered 78 Fairmont Futura here.

Now-a-days you can buy a set of motormounts/trans mount and headers for a Fox-Body Mustang and be rocking a 460 in no time flat. But back in 1981 I was blazing a trail by myself. Some plate steel made the mounts and a chassis builder custom made the headers for me, highly modifying a set from a Torino.

Even though the car never made it down the quartermile due to budget constraints, it was a lot of fun to drive. Turned more than a few heads with the 460 Fairmont. The low compression emissions motor didn’t produce a lot of HP stock, but it came stock with around 500lbs.ft. of torque. More than enough to push the flyweight Futura around.

Oct 12

5.0 Mustang Front Suspension Upgrades

Posted in On Race Track info

If you’ll be racing your 5.0 Mustang on the quartermile, there are several upgrades you should make. These upgrades will improve traction, aid in top-end stability and reduce the Mustangs’ front end weight bias. Installing an aftermarket K-member is not the easiest modification you can make to your racecar. But it does bring many benefits with it, such as being able to move the engine back an inch. Which helps move some of the weight off the front end. Some models of K-member also move the lower control arms forward a bit, which increases positive caster and adds stability. The K-member also creates much more room for large tube headers, aftermarket geardrive starters, and oil pans.

To go along with your new K-member, you should purchase the matching lower control arms for it. These tubular steel pieces are much stronger and lighter than the factory installed stamped steel parts. When changing these control arms you have the option of going with the coilover strut mounting, which further reduces weight on the front of your car.

Adjustable front struts should be installed when you have your car apart. The old struts probably have over 100K miles on them by now and are completely shot. Besides the factory strut valving is definitely not optimized for quartermile drag racing. If funds allow go for the double adjustable struts, like the QA1′s, Koni’s, and others available. The initial expense is higher, but these high quality parts are completely rebuildable. So they’re the last struts you will ever have to buy for your 5.0 Mustang. Being double adjustable allows to adjust jounce and rebound, the rate at which they extend or contract. This will come in handy if you have a car that likes to wheelstand on the back bumper. It’s much easier to tighten up the strut adjustment than it is to replace the oil pan and headers, not to mention the back bumper.

Drag racing specific front coil springs should also be added at this time. Whether you decided to go the full coilover route or keep the stock type springs, there are numerous choices out there for the drag racing Mustang, companies like AFCO and Eibach should be able to hook you up. Knowing the front end weight of your car before purchasing your new springs will help you to get the right pair the first time. Find a road racing or circle track shop in your area and have them scale your car for you. They should be able to perform this task for a fairly reasonable fee.

Replacement “Heim Joint” type tie-rod ends will allow you to bump steer your racecar. Bump steer is when the toe-in changes as your front end rises and falls, the 5.0 Mustang has a bit of bump steer as built. Changing a whole bunch of parts and lowering the front end for drag racing is only going to make the problem worse. The change in toe-in makes the car steer itself when it’s travelling down the racetrack. It’s hard enough to keep a high HP 5.0 Mustang going straight ahead as it is, without having a bump steer problem too. This issue can be corrected at the circle track racing or chassis shop for you. It’s worth the money they charge for the ability to have your car travel straight down the track.

Aluminum Caster/Camber plates are another part that’s well worth the cost of purchase. These parts replace the worn out rubber part that is your stock upper strut mounting bushing, with a much more precise steel ball bearing. This alone would make them worth the cost, but you also now have the ability to dial in a lot more positive caster, which will keep the nose of your racecar pointed in the right direction. Remember after installing all these new pieces to take your car for a front end alignment. It is better to have this done at the local chassis shop, than the local tire store.

Oct 6

Not a 9 Second Pass by a 1993 Mustang 5.0 LX

Posted in On Race Track info

Here's what happens when you overpower the track, fortunately for me it was a single pass, and no one was in the other lane. In the second pass in this clip, the other guy leaves before the tree even starts. I guess he saw my last pass and didn't want to swap any paint with me. But you know what they say "Rubbin's Racing" or is that NASCAR...HMMM

Watch this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2NFkIYK4KU

Oct 6

1993 Mustang 5.0 LX 9 second Pass Video

Posted in On Race Track info

Here's a video of my car on the track at Moroso Motorsports Park (now known as Palm Beach International Raceway). The car is running a single stage 125 shot of nitrous in this video.