Exotic Driving Experience
Jan 16

How To Build a 12 Second Mustang 5.0 Fox-body

Posted in On Race Track info


To build a 12 second Mustang 5.0 Fox-body is not too difficult a task, as stock these cars are full of drag racing potential.
There have probably been more than a few articles written about making your 5.0 run 12′s, this is my take on the whole subject.

While the new 2011 “Coyote” 5.0 engine in Ford’s latest Mustang creation can run that fast with just some good driving and tires, our Fox-body going to need a little help to break 100 mph in the quartermile. By imitating NHRA “Stock” type of combination, you’ll be able to reach the 12′s without major engine work.

NHRA “Stock Eliminator” cars follow a strict set of rules that us hobby racers are not bound by. But utilizing some of the techniques the pros use, we can make your Fox-Body Mustang fly. By maximizing traction and minimizing 60′ times, you can run in the 12′s without a lot of power.

To get the best traction we need racing tires, for a street/strip car you need drag radials. For a strip only car slicks will most likely be quicker. 275/60 x 15 drag radials or 28 x 9 x15 slicks will give you the traction you need to rip off some 1.60′s in the 60′ times. Mount your tires on a 15 x 8 aluminum racing wheel with a 5 or 5.5″ backspacing. Don’t forget the longer 3″ wheel studs to hold them on securely.

To take advantage of that big tall tire out back you’ll need a serious drag racing gear ratio. Forget about the 3.55 or 3.73′s, we want to go racing, the heck with the gas mileage. Besides that’s what overdrive is for anyway. To be able to hit the 12′s you need a 4.30 gear, or at a minimum 4.10′s.

Refill your differential with some synthetic gear oil and you should be good to go. If your cars a high miler (most Fox’s are), seriously consider rebuilding or replacing your posi-traction unit while everythings apart. Don’t waste your money on an expensive rear-end support (cover), totally unnecessary until you’re going a lot faster. My 1993 Mustang has gone as quick/fast as 9.12 @ 152.44 without one, so trust me on this point.

If your 5.0 Mustang has a T-5 5 speed transmission do yourself a favor and buy a good high performance clutch and pressure plate for your car. Replacing the flywheel with a steel one is always a good idea on any car that’s going to be raced. They’re very inexpensive compared to the cost of repairing the damage caused by your over 100K miles heat-cracked stock flywheel!

If you’re rocking an AOD in your car, it’s going to require a bit more work ($$$) to make it live for very long in the racing environment. Ideally you should install a high performance rebuild kit in it, with a shift kit to firm up your shifts and quicken them as well. High stall torque convertor is absolutely essential to get off the starting line as quick as possible.

Recommending the proper one for your particular car is a whole story in itself. Call a reputable convertor manufacturer and spend some time on the phone with them. That way they can match your convertor stall speed to your combination and driving needs. Match it up with a B&M ratchet shifter so you’ll be able to hit all those gears and stay locked out of reverse!

Next time we’ll cover more info to get you closer to running 12 second ET’s in your 5.0 Mustang . If there’s anything you have questions about ask away in the comments section below.

Dec 25

Best Drag Racing Tip Ever Get a Good Chassis Builder

This video shows what could be the best racing tip for drag racers of all time. Find and hire a NHRA certified chassis builder to construct your race car. That is probably the only reason this Funny Car driver survived this horrific crash at over 280 mph.

Aug 25

The History of Auto Racing

Posted in General Info

Ford Mustang vs Ford Thunderbird

      The first gasoline fueled automobile was built in the late 19th century by the Duryea brothers. It had a massive (for its day) 4 HP engine, but it was the dawn of a new industry. Before this effort there were several attempts at building steam powered vehicles. Some were more successful than others, the gasoline powered internal combustion engine using the four-cycle “Otto Principle” engine was much lighter and efficient.

Most steam powered cars were nothing more than locomotives in miniature. With the attendant problems of carrying enough fuel to burn and water to make steam. They were excessively heavy and unwieldly, weighing 3 or 4 times as much as a gas powered car.

    Henry Ford was generally credited with making the automobile affordable for the average consumer. His idea for the assembly line modernized the auto industry as well as many others.

The first recorded auto race was held in 1896, and after that date cars became faster and more efficient. The slogan “Race on Sunday-Sell on Monday” became the catch phrase as manufacturers took what they learned on the racetrack and applied it to their production cars. By the early 1900′s auto racing was sweeping the country as the quest to build bigger and faster cars caught on everywhere.

    Prohibition was a huge contributor to making cars faster as Moonshiners sought to outrun the revenuers. In order to get their goods to market, they had to build stronger engines and put them in stripped out bodies. So as to keep the weight down, so they could carry more White Lightning. Large cubic inch V8 engines such as the Cadillac and Oldsmobile were the power of choice for the gangsters and bootleggers of that era.

  With the repeal of Prohibition in 1933, there were a lot of fast cars and good drivers with a lot of time on there hands. The formation of NASCAR in 1943 gave a lot of these men a place to strut there stuff in a legal way. Some of the best drivers/fastest cars of the early days of NASCAR, were said to be those of former bootleggers. The first Daytona 500 was run at the new Daytona International Speedway Feb.22, 1959 and is one of the premier racing events of the year to this day.

    About this same time frame was when drag racing  formed its roots. It seemed anywhere there were two cars and a stretch of road was perfect for an impromptu race. More formal racing events were being held on the dry lake beds of California. Soon after timed speed events were being held at the world famous “Bonneville Salt Flats.”

Californias’ Santa Ana is recognized as the first real dragstrip. With the formation of the NHRA National Hot Rod Association in 1953 organized drag racing was born. Other sanctioning bodies were formed later such as the AHRA (1956-1984) and IHRA  are still running today. Automobile drag racing today encompasses a vast range of classes for all types of cars. From the stock bodied bracket racer that can’t break 100 mph in the quartermile to the Nitromethane belching monsters of Top Fuel and Funny Car that easily blow past 300 mph in the now shortened to 1000 foot distance, for those cars.

Throughout the history of auto racing theres never been a dull moment. There’s something for everyone and fun for all at the auto races. Whether you like your racers to go straight or to turn left in a circle, racing’s an All American pastime.

Aug 18

Your First Time on The Dragstrip

Posted in On Race Track info

Staged and Ready To Roll

 Today I’d like to discuss your first attempt at  drag racing your car. Hopefully you’ve spent at least a few trips to the dragstrip as a spectator. That way you can familiarize yourself with your home tracks layout. Where the various classes line up to race, which is called the staging lanes.

 There are different lanes for each category (class) of cars that are running. Typical lanes at most tracks are segregated by speed potential of the respective cars in the different classes. Fast cars run with fast cars, street cars run with other street cars etc. Its OK to ask someone else in line ” Am I in the right lane” most racers are very nice. Besides everybody was a “rookie” at one time or other. 

Ideally your first trip to the staging lanes will be on an off night. tracks typically have “Test and Tune night”. Usually on a Wednesday or a Friday night. You’ll be able to get more time on the track (more passes) than you would on a weekend day or night. Which is when most tracks run their bracket racing program or other large racing events. The tech lines (car inspection) will be shorter, and track personnel will not be as busy. So they won’t be as rushed and may be more tolerant of a newcomers questions.

Regarding tech inspections, be sure your car is up to date with motor vehicle inspections in your state. Don’t try to sneak by the inspector with items like cracked windshields, missing lug nuts, frayed seatbelts and other obvious safety hazards. Dragracing can be a very dangerous sport and the inspectors job is to make sure that everyone has as safe a vehicle as possible. So if you fail tech, don’t give the inspector a hard time. He’s only trying to save your life, and the other guys too.

 Make a note of any items you are told need attention, and be sure to have them fixed before you return to the track next time. The life you save may be your own! The best racing tip I can give you for this lesson is to buy an NHRA rule book! Its chock full of useful information regarding the inner workings of drag racing, and the safety equipment your car will be expected to have on it.

    Also at this time be sure to check out on track features. Such as where the cars heat up their tires (burnout box), Where the actual starting line is located, there’s nothing more embarassing than watching someone stage the car with the BACK wheels on the starting line. Let’s not be THAT guy! Ask another racer about the turn off for the return road, is it to the left or the right. If you are in the opposite lane from the return road “NEVER CUT IN FRONT OF THE OTHER RACER” let them pass you by BEFORE crossing over! Where do I pick up my timeslip, and any other thing regarding your local track layout.