Nov
8
 
To make a lot of horsepower in your Ford Mustang’s 5.0 engine you need to address a few areas. There are several weak engine parts in the stock 5.0, that will just not live up to the kind of power this motor will make. The cylinder block that was built for light weight by Ford, just doesn’t have the beef it needs in the main web area. The lack of an available stock 4-bolt main block means you must use either a Ford Racing 4-bolt main block or an aftermarket one from Dart.
The stock crank and rods will need to be exchanged for some forged steel replacements. A zero balanced forged steel crank and some H-beam connecting rods will be able to handle the strain of over 600 hp and live to race again tomorrow. Forged aluminum pistons from Venolia utilize a small dome to provide the high compression ratio required to make so much power from so few inches. Ductile iron top rings provide durability under fire, while a moly coated second ring lowers drag on the cylinder walls. Standard tension 3 piece oil rings round out the package, low tension rings could be used to gain a little power. But could allow detonation to occur if oil gets past them, it’s safer with the standard tension piston rings.
The choice of cams at this level will need to fairly wild to produce the 650 hp we’re after here. A solid roller cam will allow the engine to rev to 8,000 rpm. Double roller timing chain will drive the cam precisely and save money over a gear drive system. Mellings high volume pump will push Mobil-One synthetic oil through the passages after being filtered by a Fram HP-1 filter. Use a Canton deep-sump oil pan filled with 6 quarts of oil to prevent aeration. A Milodon heavy-duty oil pump drive shaft is very cheap insurance against total engine meltdown, should the stock drive shaft snap at high rpm.
Aluminum cylinder heads for the 5.0 Ford engine are made by almost everybody. To reach 650 hp without a power adder, you can rule out any street type cylinder heads. For this engine we chose the Edelbrock Victor Jr. aluminum head, outfitted with oversize 2.08″ intake and 1.625″ exhaust stainless steel valves. They were treated to a full porting job, milled for compression and cut for O-ring grooves. Pushrod guide plates and 7/16″ rocker arm studs keep everything on the straight and narrow. Manley double valve springs use spring cups under them and 10 degree titanium retainers on top. Competition Cams supplied the 5/16″pushrods, Scorpion the roller rockers and a Garrett Machine double-bar stud girdle hold it all together. Ford Racing tall aluminum valve covers make sure there’s plenty of room inside. Mr.Gasket supplied the pan-evacuation system that’s used to help keep the oil out of the combustion chambers.
Sticking with Edelbrock for the intake manifold we have a Victor Jr that has been ported to match the cylinder heads. A 750 cfm drag race Demon carburetor supplies the fuel for this thirsty 5.0 Ford racing engine. Ignition chores are left to an MSD billet distributor dishing out the spark coming from a 7AL-2 ignition box, adjustable timing computer and Pro-Power coil. Accel spark plug wires have a ceramic coating to protect them from the 2″ primary long-tube headers, with 3 1/2″ collectors. NGK spark plugs provide the fire to light it all off.
For the front drive a Innovators West “zero” balance vibration dampener holds a 3″ pulley that drives a old-school Ford 60 amp alternator to keep the batteries charged. A Mezeire electric water pump helps this 5.0 Ford racing engine keep its cool.
This engine produced 647.8 hp @ 7,100 rpm and 490.8 lb. ft. Tq @ 5500 rpm. Not only that but check out the broad torque curve this racing engine has over 470 lb.ft. from 5000 to 7400 rpm, that will put you back in the seat a bit! This article shows that with the right racing parts and proper assembly, you too can build a 650 hp 5.0 Ford racing engine.
Oct
12
If you’ll be racing your 5.0 Mustang on the quartermile, there are several upgrades you should make. These upgrades will improve traction, aid in top-end stability and reduce the Mustangs’ front end weight bias. Installing an aftermarket K-member is not the easiest modification you can make to your racecar. But it does bring many benefits with it, such as being able to move the engine back an inch. Which helps move some of the weight off the front end. Some models of K-member also move the lower control arms forward a bit, which increases positive caster and adds stability. The K-member also creates much more room for large tube headers, aftermarket geardrive starters, and oil pans.
To go along with your new K-member, you should purchase the matching lower control arms for it. These tubular steel pieces are much stronger and lighter than the factory installed stamped steel parts. When changing these control arms you have the option of going with the coilover strut mounting, which further reduces weight on the front of your car.
Adjustable front struts should be installed when you have your car apart. The old struts probably have over 100K miles on them by now and are completely shot. Besides the factory strut valving is definitely not optimized for quartermile drag racing. If funds allow go for the double adjustable struts, like the QA1′s, Koni’s, and others available. The initial expense is higher, but these high quality parts are completely rebuildable. So they’re the last struts you will ever have to buy for your 5.0 Mustang. Being double adjustable allows to adjust jounce and rebound, the rate at which they extend or contract. This will come in handy if you have a car that likes to wheelstand on the back bumper. It’s much easier to tighten up the strut adjustment than it is to replace the oil pan and headers, not to mention the back bumper.
Drag racing specific front coil springs should also be added at this time. Whether you decided to go the full coilover route or keep the stock type springs, there are numerous choices out there for the drag racing Mustang, companies like AFCO and Eibach should be able to hook you up. Knowing the front end weight of your car before purchasing your new springs will help you to get the right pair the first time. Find a road racing or circle track shop in your area and have them scale your car for you. They should be able to perform this task for a fairly reasonable fee.
Replacement “Heim Joint” type tie-rod ends will allow you to bump steer your racecar. Bump steer is when the toe-in changes as your front end rises and falls, the 5.0 Mustang has a bit of bump steer as built. Changing a whole bunch of parts and lowering the front end for drag racing is only going to make the problem worse. The change in toe-in makes the car steer itself when it’s travelling down the racetrack. It’s hard enough to keep a high HP 5.0 Mustang going straight ahead as it is, without having a bump steer problem too. This issue can be corrected at the circle track racing or chassis shop for you. It’s worth the money they charge for the ability to have your car travel straight down the track.
Aluminum Caster/Camber plates are another part that’s well worth the cost of purchase. These parts replace the worn out rubber part that is your stock upper strut mounting bushing, with a much more precise steel ball bearing. This alone would make them worth the cost, but you also now have the ability to dial in a lot more positive caster, which will keep the nose of your racecar pointed in the right direction. Remember after installing all these new pieces to take your car for a front end alignment. It is better to have this done at the local chassis shop, than the local tire store.
Aug
27
 The 5.0 Mustang is one of the most popular cars found at the track today. There’s a good reason for that too. The Mustangs excellent power to weight ratio in stock form. Along with the very large availability of parts from both the factory and the aftermarket. Make it a great starting point from which to build a competitive race car.
Still the Fox-body Mustang is not without its shortcomings. The nose heavy weight bias, non parallel four link rear suspension, and other items need attention. Luckily most of them are easily remedied.
The first thing that needs addressed is the tires, on the 5.0 Mustang tires are a vital link between the car and the racing surface. Making them the single most important part for making your Mustang launch correctly. The factory supplied rubber, Goodyear Eagles for most years models. Are a great tire for a road going machine, but not exactly what you want for drag racing. The tires short sidewall height, combined with the hard rubber street tire compound. Mean lots and lots of wheelspin and long black skid marks everywhere.
So changing to a true drag racing tire is in order. For street/strip driven cars drag radials are a hard tire to beat, for a track only ride racing slicks or cheater slicks (AKA M/T ET Streets) are what you want. Mustangs can run with either a 26″ or 28″ tall tire (factory rubber generally runs about 25.5″ tall) with only slight massaging of the inner fenderwells. Using a 15×8″ wheel with a 5.5″ backspacing and you should be able to fit a 275/60×15 drag radial or a 28×12.5-15LT ET Street or a 28×10.5-15 slick. The difference in numbering is in the way the tires are measured, slicks are listed by tread width, the others are given by section width (overall sidewall to sidewall width).
A 28″ tall tire, like the above sizes works best for a high horsepower,stroker motor, supercharged,turbocharged and/or nitrous car. If your ride is more conservative in the horsepower department, a 28″ tire would definitely be overkill. One thing to consider is the weight of your tire, taller tires = heavier tires. After your car launches that same tire now becomes a liability, because of rotational inertia (takes more power to turn em).
In other words if your car hooks just fine with a 26″ tire without excessive spin . It will actually be quicker and faster with the smaller and lighter tire. If your budget limits you to only one set of tires the shorter tires are definitely the way you want to go. A 28″ tire will also require a rearend gear change (to keep your engine in its powerband) as well. Which is an extra expense that I’ll discuss in a later post.
While I’m on the lighter is better topic, most factory wheels are extremely heavy. Changing your rims to a lightweight aluminum rim like a Centerline or Weld Draglights, or if you’re really in the money a set of Bogart Dragonflys. Will definitely shave some precious time off your 60′ ET , as much as .10 second or more on most cars.
Aluminum wheels will require longer wheel studs to properly fasten them to your Mustang.Factory studs are just not long enough to do the job.You can use a long shank lug nut that fits inside the wheel to secure them. Or better yet, use the 11/16″ drive studs with a flat spacer and lug nut (much, much stronger).They also can be torqued to 100 ft. lbs. instead of 80 ft. lbs. like with the stock 1/2″ studs. Safety rules require the stud to extend at least the diameter of the stud (1/2″) into the hex portion of the lugnut (3″ studs will do the job).
Radials are generally run tubeless, slicks and ET street type tires can be run tubeless, but are generally run with tubes inside. Running tubes in your tires requires you to run screws through the bead. To prevent tire from creeping on the wheel and ripping out your valvestems. 10-12 self tapping S.S. screws equally spaced around the bead on BOTH sides of the wheel should do the trick. Every other screw goes through the rim at a 90 deg. angle (straight in), the alternate screws should penetrate the bead at a 45 deg. angle. Make sure the screws you use are long enough to go through the wheel flange but not so long as to puncture the tube/tire. Something like a #12 hex head x 1/2″-3/4″ length should do the trick, (make sure you check though).
Screws are not recommended on drag radials, so use a bead-lock type wheel with these tires. Make sure you have your new wheels and tires professionally balanced before hitting the race track. Peel and stick wheel weights work better than the hammer on kind that most tire stores use. Do yourself a favor and pick some up and bring them along with you when you go to have them mounted.
Now that your Mustang has some new rubber, its time to air them up. Buy a high quality tire pressure gauge (liquid filled is best), made specifically for low pressure. The old pencil/stick type gauge your grand dad used, is just not going to cut it anymore! My recommendation is to start out on the high side of the pressure range, (DO NOT EVER exceed maximum pressure rating on sidewall) and gradually lower the pressure 1-2 psi at a time. Keep checking your 60′ times, look for the pressure that gives you the quickest 60′ time. After that you can fine tune pressures by 1/2 pound at a time, to find the perfect number. Be aware of the fact that a drag slick with low air pressure is a bit of a hairy ride (Bias Ply Squirm) that takes a little getting used to, be careful! By now you should have lowered your ET by several tenth’s of a second (at least). Keep reading along with me and soon I’ll bring you more racing tips and techniques to make you quicker and faster.
Aug
18
 5.0 Mustang in Proper Position to Do a Burnout-In Front of the Water!
So now you’re ready to move up to the starting line. You’ve double checked your seatbelt and your helmet strap(RIGHT)?As you pull up to the starting line you want to be sure your car is lined up IN THE GROOVE! The GROOVE is the 2 dark patches on the track where (most) of the cars all run. Its the built up rubber left behind from all the other cars that went before you (very sticky).Center your car as best you can in the 2 black strips, MAKE SURE YOUR WHEELS ARE POINTED STRAIGHT AHEAD!
Here’s where I’m gonna talk about proper staging technique(etiquette)? In drag racing your car there is a thing we call courtesy stage. What this means in the nut shell is, the first car to the line. Pulls up far enough to light the PRE STAGE BULBS ONLY! Then WAITS for the other driver to do likewise. Don’t just go roaring up to the line, light the pre stage, the stage, and then go straight to deep stage ALL AT ONCE! If you do everyone will know you are a rank amateur, we don’t want that do we? If the other driver does it, oh well, tell him about this blog.
If you spent some time watching the starting line (like I told you to). Then you’ll have no problem identifying the box between the lanes that houses the starting beams. Slowly approach the beams, as soon as the pre stage bulb lights STOP, wait for the other driver, then SLOWLY inch forward. You’re only 6″ from the starting line now (don’t want to foulstart now).
When your staged light comes on stop, (this is called a shallow stage) which is good for a lower ET as your car can get a rolling start before breaking the beams. I’ll get into varying your staging methods later, including how to deep stage, and what the advantages are to both techniques. As soon as both cars are staged the starter can activate the tree (SO BE READY).
Eyes on the tree, concentration focused, RPMS up, LEAN BACK! The tree features 3 amber bulbs, a green bulb,and A HUGE UGLY RED ONE! Each amber bulb is lit for exactly 1/2 (.5) seconds giving you a total of 1 1/2 (1.5) seconds from the time the tree is activated until the green light comes on. My best racing tip for this lesson is DON’T WAIT FOR THE GREEN LIGHT TO COME ON! If you do you’ll be late (very) off the starting line.
The reason is a thing called reaction time, you have one and your car has one. Together they add up to a 1/2 second (at least), unless your car is extremely quick/fast. Trust me on this one point, we can fine tune your cars reaction time in the near future. Most peoples reaction time is non adjustable, so we’ll work on different staging depths to fine tune your R.T. later.
So the 3rd amber comes on and we’re off, you didn’t light the red one, did you? You must wait until you SEE the 3rd amber come on, don’t anticipate it (see it). Keep your car centered in the groove as you row through the gears.(Don’t overrev her) Outside of the groove is a place called the marbles, and can be very slick out there (wheelspin bad).
Keep the pedal to the metal and your wits about you. Don’t do nothing dumb at this point we’re almost home free. When you cross the finish line, take your foot off the gas pedal (Duh) and apply the brakes firmly but gently. Gradually slow the car to a safe speed and look for the return road, (REMEMBER WHAT I TOLD YOU ABOUT CUTTING IN FRONT OF THE OTHER CAR)!
Most tracks have more than one return road. Its OK to drive past the first one if your car is traveling too fast to safely negotiate the turn. Remember keep your helmet on and your seat belt securely fastened until you are COMPLETELY OFF THE RACING SURFACE! I’ve seen cars have their brakes fail or other serious problems develop at this point. No sense getting careless now!
Turn off the track and head for the timing shack (NO SPEEDING 10 MPH) to pick up your first timeslip. Congratulations on a job well done! You are now a DRAGRACER for which there is no cure! I’ll be posting more info on this blog in the future so stay tuned for more tips and techniques to come.
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