To build a 12 second Mustang 5.0 Fox-body is not too difficult a task, as stock these cars are full of drag racing potential.
There have probably been more than a few articles written about making your 5.0 run 12’s, this is my take on the whole subject.
While the new 2011 “Coyote” 5.0 engine in Ford’s latest Mustang creation can run that fast with just some good driving and tires, our Fox-body going to need a little help to break 100 mph in the quartermile. By imitating NHRA “Stock” type of combination, you’ll be able to reach the 12’s without major engine work.
NHRA “Stock Eliminator” cars follow a strict set of rules that us hobby racers are not bound by. But utilizing some of the techniques the pros use, we can make your Fox-Body Mustang fly. By maximizing traction and minimizing 60′ times, you can run in the 12’s without a lot of power.
To get the best traction we need racing tires, for a street/strip car you need drag radials. For a strip only car slicks will most likely be quicker. 275/60 x 15 drag radials or 28 x 9 x15 slicks will give you the traction you need to rip off some 1.60’s in the 60′ times. Mount your tires on a 15 x 8 aluminum racing wheel with a 5 or 5.5″ backspacing. Don’t forget the longer 3″ wheel studs to hold them on securely.
To take advantage of that big tall tire out back you’ll need a serious drag racing gear ratio. Forget about the 3.55 or 3.73’s, we want to go racing, the heck with the gas mileage. Besides that’s what overdrive is for anyway. To be able to hit the 12’s you need a 4.30 gear, or at a minimum 4.10’s.
Refill your differential with some synthetic gear oil and you should be good to go. If your cars a high miler (most Fox’s are), seriously consider rebuilding or replacing your posi-traction unit while everythings apart. Don’t waste your money on an expensive rear-end support (cover), totally unnecessary until you’re going a lot faster. My 1993 Mustang has gone as quick/fast as 9.12 @ 152.44 without one, so trust me on this point.
If your 5.0 Mustang has a T-5 5 speed transmission do yourself a favor and buy a good high performance clutch and pressure plate for your car. Replacing the flywheel with a steel one is always a good idea on any car that’s going to be raced. They’re very inexpensive compared to the cost of repairing the damage caused by your over 100K miles heat-cracked stock flywheel!
If you’re rocking an AOD in your car, it’s going to require a bit more work ($$$) to make it live for very long in the racing environment. Ideally you should install a high performance rebuild kit in it, with a shift kit to firm up your shifts and quicken them as well. High stall torque convertor is absolutely essential to get off the starting line as quick as possible.
Recommending the proper one for your particular car is a whole story in itself. Call a reputable convertor manufacturer and spend some time on the phone with them. That way they can match your convertor stall speed to your combination and driving needs. Match it up with a B&M ratchet shifter so you’ll be able to hit all those gears and stay locked out of reverse!
Next time we’ll cover more info to get you closer to running 12 second ET’s in your 5.0 Mustang . If there’s anything you have questions about ask away in the comments section below.